Got an old, rusty cast iron skillet? Or maybe you've come across an old piece of cast iron cookware in need of some serious TLC? With the E-tank soaking method, Cast Iron Restoration is easily achieved in just a couple of days. Revive your cookware with this effective, straightforward technique!
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Frustrated with rust on your cast iron cookware? Bring it back to life and restore its lasting performance with this step-by-step guide to Cast Iron Restoration. Follow this process on how to restore cast iron cookware to its former glory.
So, what causes all this rust (also known as iron oxide)? Over time, even the most well-maintained skillets can lose their shine and develop rust. This is due to a reaction between the iron, oxygen, and moisture, especially when the cookware lacks a protective seasoning layer.
For minor rust, a simple scrub with steel wool and warm water might do the trick. For more stubborn rust, try a vinegar soak—just mix equal parts vinegar and water and submerge the pan for up to 8 hours.
However, for heavily corroded cast iron, the most powerful and effective method is using an electrolysis tank for cast iron restoration, which is the primary focus of this guide. This method uses an electrical current to drive the rust off your cookware and onto a piece of steel in the tank, restoring it to like-new condition.
Why Removing Rust from a Cast Iron Matters
- Cooking Functionality: Rust and other residues can interfere with the cooking surface, leading to uneven heating and affecting food quality. Removing rust ensures your food cooks evenly and retains its natural flavors.
- Keep it Non-Stick: Restoring your cast iron helps preserve the non-stick properties that make this cookware so easy to clean. Regular restoration maintains the seasoning, keeping it effective and always ready for use.
- Kitchen Longevity: High-quality cast iron cookware is an investment that’s meant to last for years. Putting in a little time and effort to maintain it will ensure your cookware stays in excellent condition for the long haul.
Supplies Needed for a Cast Iron Electrolysis Tank
- Plastic Bin or Drum: A 22-gallon, heavy-duty plastic bin or drum is used to hold the soaking solution, along with the cookware and the metal anode during the cleaning process.
- Copper Wire: This connects the anodes together.
- Anode: This piece of metal attracts rust particles, preventing them from corroding the cast iron. Regular scrap steel, like lawn mower blades or any non-galvanized, non-metallic steel, works well.
- Battery Charger: A manual battery charger is used to supply a consistent electrical current during the electrolysis process, aiding in the removal of rust and contaminants.
- PVC Pipe: Serves as a hanging mechanism for the cast iron piece, making it easier to submerge and suspend the cookware above the tank’s bottom during cleaning.
- Coat Hanger:A bent piece of wire, such as a coat hanger, is used to hang the cast iron piece inside the tank during the cleaning process.
- Laundry Booster: Also called washing soda, this ingredient helps facilitate the electrical current that breaks down rust and makes removal easier. You will need 1.5 cups per 10 gallons of water.
How to Restore a Rusty Cast Iron Skillet
The most effective way to treat heavily rusted cast iron is by building an electrolysis tank. In just 24-48 hours, your cookware will be ready for an easy scrub and back in action. Follow these 4 simple steps:
- Step 1: Set Up the Base. Place the anode (metal) inside the plastic container, and secure the copper wire to the metal, either by wrapping it around or fastening it with screws. Then, fill the bin with water until it’s almost full.
- Step 2: Build the Pipe and Hanger. Position the PVC pipe on top of the container. Use a bent coat hanger to hang the cast iron piece from the top, ensuring it stays suspended in the tank.
- Step 3: Mix the Solution and Connect. Add washing soda to the water and stir to dissolve. Connect the red (hot) lead to the anode and the black (negative) lead to the wire holding the cast iron. Turn on the battery charger to start the process.
- Step 4: Soak the Cast Iron. Leave the cast iron in the tank for 24 hours. Check periodically to see if the rust has shed into the solution. Once the rust has lifted, it’s time to scrub and restore your skillet.
⭐️ Hint: If the rust isn’t fully lifting after 24 hours, don’t worry! Let your cast iron soak for up to 48 hours if needed. Sometimes, a longer soak is necessary for heavily corroded pieces.
Maintaining Your Restored Cast Iron Skillet
- Season Properly: After restoring your cast iron, seasoning it is the next crucial step. Check out these instructions on how to season your cast iron to maintain its non-stick surface and longevity!
- Washing Technique: To preserve the seasoning, clean your cast iron with warm water and a stiff brush after each use. Avoid steel wool or wire wheels, they can strip away the seasoning and damage your cast iron.
- Storage: Store your cast iron in a dry place to prevent moisture exposure, which can cause rust. If stacking it with other cookware, place a paper towel or cloth between them to protect the surface.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Harsh Treatment: Using harsh chemicals or abrasive tools can damage the cast iron and compromise the cookware’s integrity. Stick to the proven methods described above for safe restoration.
- Neglecting to Dry: Even a small amount of moisture left on your cast iron after washing can lead to rust. Always dry your pan completely with a towel, and to ensure all moisture evaporates, place it over a stovetop burner on low heat for a few minutes.
- Don’t Overcrowd: Each piece of cast iron needs ample space during the electrolysis process for optimal results. If you’re restoring multiple pieces, it’s best to treat them one at a time for the best outcome.
Cast Iron Restoration FAQs
Yes, electrolysis is safe and effective for all types of cast iron cookware. Just ensure proper setup of your e-tank and handle it with care to avoid electrical hazards.
Yes, it's safe when done properly. Follow the instructions carefully, wear safety equipment (like gloves), and work in a well-ventilated area, such as a garage or outdoor space.
Once the rust is removed, the cookware should have a smooth, shiny surface. Any remaining areas can be scrubbed further with a stiff brush and warm water. Don’t forget to season your cast iron after restoration!
Conclusion
Restoring your cast iron cookware with the e-tank method is the most effective way to bring back its original shine and functionality, especially for heavily rusted pieces. Whether you're an experienced cast iron user or new to cooking with it, following these steps will extend the life of your skillet and help maintain its quality for every meal.
Nell says
Hello and Thanks for allowing me here.
This is my first tank ever never seen one built never seen one in use before and it seems to be very scary.
I have bought a 40 gallon plastic barrel with a lead that fits it properly. I have bought connecting valve for the bottom to drain out the liquid so that it can be emptied easily. I have also bought a heater that some people use for chicken waters to keep them from freezing during the winter time, I have not yet started to put this together due to coming down sick with the Covid. So as soon as that’s over with I will get started. I’m understanding that I am to use a heavy wire, such as a coat hanger wire or copper wire to attach the Skillet to the board OK to submerge it in the liquid. I bought a converter from 1:10 to 12 V instead of a battery charger and I’m hoping this will be fine to use. It was recommended through another website so I ordered it was not that expensive. I have purchased about 35 rusty skillets that needs to be cleaned. Some are have crud some just rust now if I need to just remove the crud I can use that in a lye tank or if it’s rust and crud I should use that in the etank. Thanks for any advice and any help that you can give me putting my etank together.
Ned Adams says
You got this! The best thing is that it is low voltage. I think you are on the right track with what you mentioned.
Cecil Spivey says
After years of wanting to do it, I have just built my e-tank and begun to use it. It’s working amazingly well! Just one question for the expert… I’m using a piece of 10 gauge Cooper wire to hang my cast iron piece in the tank. Is there any problem with that? I know only a tiny bit about unlike metals and galvanic corrosion, and I’m wondering if I’m introducing a problem. Please let me know your thoughts about this. Thanks!
Ned Adams says
Great question, you could do that, however I typically just use a wire coat hanger since it’s generally cheaper than copper wire.
David Carley says
I built it as you described and the first time it worked like a dream!! But the second time my power supply keeps tripping like it is shorting out. I am not sure what I am doing wrong. The pan isnt touching the steel sheets, there is no short anywhere. Is it something to do with the resistance the liquid solution is presenting? The only thing I did differently was I diluted the washing soda in hot water first.
Ned Adams says
Great question, David. I've seen the same thing from time to time. What I'll do is turn the power amperage down. 2amps should work great. I've also noticed that over time the steel will start to get chewed up, so I have to replace that. I also don't dilute the washing soda in hot water first. You could also try using less washing soda and see if that helps. Over all it sounds like the battery charger might be pulling higher amount of power than it needs. Hopefully that gives you some ideas and things to check. Hope you have a great day!
Becky Stewart says
Mr. Adams, are you on Facebook. May I ask where you are located? Thanks so much.
Ned Adams says
You can find me on Facebook via the following URL, or there’s a link to this url at the top of my website. https://www.facebook.com/dutchovendaddy
Josh Pisani says
What amperage is the charger set at?
Ned Adams says
I use mine on 2 amps.
Todd Delquadri says
What setting are you using on the charger?
Ned Adams says
Hi Todd. I use mine on 2 amps.
Chris Gilleland says
Can you completely submerge the handle of the cast iron skillet being cleaned where the coat hanger attaches to the handle or does it need to be out of the solution a little? Most of the pics I’ve seen show the tip of the handle out of solution a little. Just wanting a uniform clean. Thank you
Ned Adams says
Since it is very low voltage, you can submerge the handle completely.
Christopher granata says
Hey can you send me more detailed pics on the build.I have an absolute treasure trove of antique cast iron that needs restoring
Michelle De La Cerda Nash says
There are pretty detailed step by step images in the post currently. If you have a particular question about a step, feel free to reach out again.